Cuba Day 15

Time to say good bye to this wonderful sunny place. It has been so much fun. Even though I missed some important things to do because I got sick, it was still pleasantly unforgeable. The pictures will bring back tones of memories, and many tales to tell over coffee. I took the morning bus back to Santa Clara (3 hr), and took a cab to the airport.

Cuba Day 14 - Varadero

Today I decided to do the alternative Varadero. I still didn't think I'm fit enough to go diving, so I went to the cave instead. First I did the eco walk at the Reserva Ecologica Varahicacos. It's like a typical walk in the woods, but with a few educational point of interest with descriptions. But the most interesting part is one of the caves. The entrance is so small I almost had to crawled in. But inside is quite big, circular, and the top is like a dome. It's almost like you can fit 50 people in in a circle for a meeting there! I was a little bit intimidated 'cause I forgot to bring my flash light, and there are bats inside. I wasn't sure if they attack human... Anyway, I was proved to be naive when I consulted the attendant at my next point at Cueva de Ambrosio that all the bats are safe. In any case I enjoyed it very much. I was all alone in an absolutely unknown place, and it gave me the Indiana Jones experience! Love it! The Ambrosio cave is extensive and has interesting prehistorical paintings. The attendant was very kind to lend me her flash light so I can go explore. Her English was very good, and she explained to me all about the cave, the painting, even the life of a bat! My plan for the day was to go to the caves, then go to the beach again. But just these proved to be taking too long. After the cave, the sun was setting and I had to go back. My transportation for the day was the tour bus that drives around all the tourist points, $5 for the whole day! However it is really slow. If I rented a scooter, or taken the taxi, it would have been much faster, but much more expensive of course.

Cuba Day 13 - Varadero

Today I feel much better, in the afternoon I was actually able to take a dip into the ocean. What a feeling! The beach is just across the street from my casa, more convenient than the convenient store. I just bring my goggle and off I went. At night, I was finally healthy enough to have my first lobster dinner. Price is double of what is in Vinales, but I can't resist anymore, after every restaurant lured me with their top dish.

Cuba Day 12 - Varadero

I decided to just rest up today. If I don't get well, going home would be such a drag. I just did a few planning, that was it.

Cuba Day 11 - Varadero

Today rode the morning bus back to Havana, and transfered to Varadero. I think Lonely Planet gave me the wrong impression that this place will be like Cancun, with many resorts side by side, and shopping malls. When I arrived, I do see some big hotels from far away, but from where I am, the main town area, it's just a normal Cuban city to me. Where I'm staying, I see chickens running around in the backyard. I don't think you can see that in Cancun. I originally decided to come here because Lonely Planet says the diving shops here offer day excursion to the Bay of Pigs from here, which would have worked out perfectly for my itinerary. However my health has not been very good on this trip. Let's just wait and see if I'll gain back my strength in time.

Cuba Day 10 - Vinales

Having spent a day looking at the valley, today I'm going into the valley, by horse. For just $20, this 4 hours deal I think is pretty fine. The guide spoke little English, so I again had to rely on single Spanish words and sign language. The tour begins just off the main road. We rode through farm lands and beautiful landscapes, Riding horse is not my usual activity, and it took a little more getting used to than I thought. First is the control. My horse wouldn't listen to me at first, 'cause I didn't know where to kick it, or how hard. I think I've confused the horse quite a bit. Then is the seating, how not to kill my butt. We made a stop to talk to a tobacco farmer, who showed us how to wrap a cigar, also had a coconut with rum to cool it down. Then we continued and reached the big cave. A guide was waiting with two lamps, but I got my own so my horse guide can use it. This one is much bigger than the Indio cave and gave more a raw experience 'cause there's no wall lamps, you have to rely on your own flash light. There are many pillars, and interesting looking rock formations. It's a 5-10 minutes walk, and we reached the end where there's a lake in long rectangular shape. I can't tell how long the lake is because the other end can only be reached by water and my lamp is not strong enough to see all the way through. The guide said it is save to swim in it. But my guts tells me not unless I have a waterproof lamp, which I don't. Anyway, we stopped for a couple minutes to just admire the wonders of nature, then we walked back out. We continued on with our horses on the circular route and rode back to town.

Cuba Day 9 - Vinales

Yesterday I asked around the tourist centers and found there is a bus tour. I got a brochure and it says it goes to places like the cave, the cigar factory, some horse back riding, some hiking, ...etc. Sounds like a fantastic deal. I got up early in the morning and arrived at the bus station. I hopped on the bus for $5 and the bus started to drive around different spots. We went to the rock painting, the Indio cave, one of the hotel look out points. They are all not bad. Very good for photo taking. However after that, the bus started to going back to the same spots. With my limited Spanish, I can only follow other Spanish speaking tourists, but they were also confused. At the end, we found out those were all the spots the bus will go. It just keep on looping until the end of the day. With heads scratching, we got off, it was only noon. I then decided to take the short hike up to the La Emila hotel. Was planning to swim there but the pool was too small for too many people. But the view is fantastic, overlooking the mountains and the small town. I bought a coffee and sat down. Such is life in Vinales, just relax, watching the curious-looking mountain shapes, the clouds and blue sky, watching the village lives go by, the chickens running around freely, the people walking by ever so slowly, just enjoy the calmness of village life.

Cuba Day 8 - Vinales

I've been longing to go to the countryside since my 2nd day in Havana. I think I'm more a country person. The Viazul bus station in Havana is a bit frantic. Seats are given to people who booked their ticket at another office first, though me and some other folks got there way ahead of time, we weren't able to buy ticket until the last minute. During that time, people got frustrated, people trying to make plan B with the taxi drivers. At the end we all got in with 1 or 2 empty seats left on the bus. After couple hours of drive through the lush forest and hills, as the bus made the final turn descend into the valley, the unmistakable Vinales landscape appears. The air here as expected is so much more enjoyable. The owner of my cass "Tatio" is already waiting for me at the bus stop. We walked couple blocks into this tiny neighborhood, complete with a small lawn and porch, overlooking the beautiful mountain, I can't wait to sit down and relax and just enjoy the view.

Cuba Day 7 - Havana

My sole plan today is La Cabana. Not that it takes a whole day to tour the sight, but because I'm not feeling well. As suggested by the Lonely Planet guide, I took the ferry in Vieja to Casa Blanca. The Bicycle taxi driver had trouble understanding where I wanted to go. It's probably not a popular option. I hopped on the standing-only ferry for $1 with all the locals, passing through piers for great photo opts, then landed on Casa Blanca. I then did a short climb through the Statue of Christ to la Cabana. It is a huge fortress,, and hardly any one was there. I wonder if everybody was waiting for sunset to come or because it was a rainy and windy day Part of the castles reminds me of some 3D war game. It is a huge complex, with really tall buildings, and fantastic view over the city, but that was about it. I didn't stay for long 'cause it was too windy, otherwise it would have been a nice thing to just sit and watch the city live go by from afar. Caught a taxi back to Malecon. In the previous 2 days the water was calm as a lake. I've never experienced a shoreline so windless, but today is in sharp contrast. I finally get to see the famous "wave splashing onto the highway" scene.

Cuba Day 6 - Havana

Today I walked all the way from Parque Maceo where my casa particular is located, to the Plaza de la Revolucion, passing through the Havana University on the way, and caught a glimpse of Cuban education. The Revolution square is a huge space. $1 got me up to the Jose Marti memorial, where I could imagine Fidel Castro speaking to all the Cubans there. On the platform, one could see the two display of Che and Cienfuegos on the wall of the hotel. After that I continued to walk to the Necropolis Cristobal Colon, in search of Ibrahim Ferrer's grave stone. The cemetery is more expensive to get in then the Revolucion square, which is $5. There are all the famous people of Cuba buried, like presidents, war veterans..etc. Unfortunately I don't know too much about Cuban history to appreciate them, all I wanted to see was that little humble grave of Ferrer, one of the greatest voice I have ever heard. I had more plan for that day, but I felt too tired and went back to my hostel to get rest.

Cuba Day 5 - Havana

Today plan was National Captical, Tobacco Factory, and Museo de la Revelucion, Unfortunately I found out there's no cigar tour in the capital until next year, and National Captical is closed for renovation. The Lonely Planet stated it was closed at the time of writing, and it was written couple years ago. At the end I traded those 2 itinerary items with the Cuban Art Museum. The Revolution Museum was good, to tour the former presidential palace and as well learn a little more about the revolution history and see some interesting artifacts. The Cuban art museum was definitely worth it. I personally like modern art more than traditional art, but I visited the latter last so was kind of too tired to really enjoy it. Never the less it was a treat. Contrary to the Lonely Planet, the Cuban art museum is $5, not free. There are noticeably more street hustler on the street than small town Santa Clara, as expected. I was approached by men and women numerous time, all seems to off for something. The most common one was young people asking passer by to salsa party. The most funny one was a guy who told me he played in a jazz band which flied to the Edmonton Jazz Fest, that today is his birthday, and he is playing for the Buena Vista Social Club today at a venue somewhere close by, and that Fidel Castro is going there too, that he told me all these because I come from Canada. OK.... As far as I know, Fidel is ailing and is sick in bed... At the end of the day, I made a detour to the China town where I was the only Chinese there. I took a picture of the gateway, the street name, and I'm out of there.

Cuba Day 4 - Havana

After the dinner yesterday, I'm feeling out of it. I must have been too full, starting to have a soar throat and tired. The smog here in Havana doesn't help either. Anyway, the travel went smoothly from Santa Clara to the most romantic Latin American city, Habana. Took a taxi from Viazul station to the hostel (House in front of the sea). Took the taxi driver a little while to find it. There is no clear sign at all with the hostel name. I arrived at an old run down building on Malecon over looking the sea. I was very skeptical as I walked up the stair. Then opened the door, there the living room window looking out to the endless ocean. Fantastic! Inside is not run down at all. I get my own balcony, which can see the sea as well, but with my soar throat and the smog from this huge busy highway, I think I'd have to keep the door closed. I spent the rest of the day resting, took a walk down Malecon and went up to the National Hotel. I think I'm gonna rest early today.

Cuba Day 3 - Santa Clara

I was planning to go to the Tabacoo factory and the Casa de la Ciudad, but both are closed on Sundays, and unfortunately is not mentioned in Lonely Planet guide. So I went to look for a church instead, 'cause it's Sunday, and so happened just around the corner of my casa is a small church, just started worshiping. The pastor invited me in, so I sat there, for the whole service, even though I didn't understand a word. After that, I had nothing else to do, so I just headed to the square, and join the locals, spend an afternoon sitting and people watching. There is always someone playing music, and as the night draws near, there are just more and more music. It doesn't look like they are playing for money, they just play for the joy of it, and that's the best kind of music. They are mostly seniors who are sitting there to enjoy this traditional Cuban jazz. The young people are mostly kissing in the corner, or lining up for restaurants, or enjoying a beer on the patio. As I was sitting there a fellow came to me and gave me an offer to a restaurant, $8 for all dishes. He sounded like someone who is onto a scam, but I thought what could go wrong with a meal, besides it's Cuba, it's suppose to be safe. So I followed him to the restaurant, and it is a proper restaurant, just the location is in middle of no where. Greeted me was the overs-sized restaurant owner. I ordered a grilled pork. I had no idea what comes next. Whoop there comes a dish almost half the size of the table, and 3 huge pork steaks with skin! The rice and salads are extra. After I finished the dinner, I could hardly walk. I could understand why the owner is over-sized. sorry... cruel joke.

Cuba Day 2 - Santa Clara

I tried to sleep in, but the neighbors (The cigar factory) were up at 7am chopping and chatting in the, almost like right next to my window. Walked slowing down the stair, and there a huge healthy delicious breakfast all homemade (including the jam) by the owner couple was waiting for me on the table with one seat. I feel like a king. I ate everything. With a full satisfied stomach, I headed out for a full day of walking to tour sights. Sight #1: Monumento Ernesto Che Guevara & the grave stones with the eternal flame. To me this monument, and Che's statures is unlike any other to me, because of what the person stands for, and his action that accompanies it. He is authentic, because he gave the ultimate price for it. And the grave stones of the Bolivian soldiers, rarely are rebels of a failed coup being remembered, but here an eternal flame is erected for them, all because of Che, and his legacy. I then had lunch at La Cochino, as recommended by Lonely Planet. Food isn't bad, but had to sit outside because of the tour group there. I then head back east to the Monumento a la Toma del Tren Blindado, took some pictures then went to the little Estatue Che y Nino. This stature is actually more interesting to me than the big one, with all the interesting details, specially the tiny people walking out from Che's belt, like Che is a giant robot saving the human race. I continued heading east on Independio and followed the sign for Loma de Capriio, a look out point overlooking the whole city, just in time for sunset. After sunset I went to El Alba for an early dinner, 'cause I was dying to go to the washroom which I found none in all the sights in the afternoon. My first dinner with local pesos, under $3 CUC gave me a full pork dinner, with quality too, Then headed to Coppelia, where all the locals are lining up to get in for $1 ice-cream. The line up was all the way to the street corner. I must have waited for almost an hour, and got only half way through. I decided I should head somewhere else. There got to be another ice cream place. Turns out there is another one with absolutely no one inside. I decided to head back to the square instead, and enjoy some free music instead. There I enjoyed my first outdoor Cuban music, they were playing 'Son', a full band of retired musicians, complete with all the wind and brass instruments and percussion. What a treat! I headed to the cocktail booth beside it, admitting I don't speak Spanish, I asked for a recommendation, she gave me a shooter but wouldn't accept my money. I have to say this is better than the ice cream.

Cuba Day 1 - Santa Clara

Arrived safely at the airport ahead of schedule, but got the most thorough custom questioning ever. She must have asked me 10 times if I have a girlfriend or know anyone here, and if I'm brining anything to anyone. I must have been the last one through the custom, She copied all my hostels information. At the airport, there were no exchange place, no bus out to the city. I asked another officer how to get to the city, he then asked me the same question the custom officer already asked me, in addition he asked if I'm carrying any drugs. Then he said "enjoy your trip" without answering my original question. I think they don't like solo backpackers here. I got out and found the one and only taxi waiting for passengers from the weekly flight, I got in agreeing on $20 Canadian cash, not knowing my hostel (Florida Hostel Center) actually sent someone to pick me up without confirming with me they are coming. When I got to the hostel, the owner was surprised, and the driver later came back and gave me the look. As one of the tripadvisor comment mentioned, this hostel sent the person to another hostel without telling him in advance, I was kind of expecting the same fate, and they did send me to another that is like 7 blocks away (Roberto y Terresita), luckily the owner is super nice, like a mother, and she gave me the upper double room without extra charge. It's full of serenity here, 'cause I'm the only tenant here. I settled down, got my money exchanged in time before close of business, and ready to take an early rest.

Cuba Day 0 - YYZ

This is a trip in the making for a long long time. Ever since I saw the Buena Vista Social Club documentary I decided I want to go, but there were always other trips that took priority. Now that most the members have past on, I finally came around to plane and go. Instead of going to their concerts, I'll be going to some of their grave stones and pay respect, which I'll be physically much closer than if I was to go to their concert. So looking forward to my Cuban experience.