This is a trip I'll never forget; the majestic sight, the strenuous hike, and the troubles we almost got ourself into.
We arrived at the town of Cougar WA the night before, and camped out at Cougar Park, with a very nice camp host couple, beside a very nice lake, and yes we had the lake view at our site. Thanks to Kevin we had a nice steak dinner in the wild.
The next morning, the three of us woke up at 5am, and hoped to get to the trail head as early as possible. We know the hike is around 9hr return. We headed out at around 7, to get our permits and drive to the trail head. It was a hazy morning, the fog was so thick we had to slow down our drive. It was around 8am when we got to Ptarmigan trail, the start of our summit climb. We were relieved when we see we weren't the last hikers arriving. I thought the whole day was gonna be cloudy, and therefore didn't carry any sun block with me in order to save weight. This will proved to be mistake #1.
We started out slowly, paced ourself, knowing there are much tougher hikes ahead. After about an hour or two, the forest opened up, and so were the sky, we found ourselves above the clouds, looking across the view, we saw the majestic Mt Adams and Mt Hood piercing through the thick clouds. We were enthusiastic, enjoying ourselves, and taking care not to spend too much time taking pictures.
As we continued to hike up, the forest became thinner and thinner, until it becomes completely barren. Except for a few occasional alpine plants, there is only snow, volcanic rocks and ashes. I pulled out my dollar shop worker gloves with coating on the palm. It was surprisingly effective in grabbing the volcanic rocks and pulling pushing myself from rock to rock on steep hills. I even found myself pushing ahead of some of the other climbers with hiking poles. Also me biking to work helped to build up my legs muscles needed for this challenge. However, I found my two friends began to lag behind. At that time, because there are no more trees, we could see the top already. But when we see how tiny the people were up there, we knew we still have a very long steep climb. I looked at my watch, and looked at the distance we have to make, and accessed the pace we were in, I felt we might not have enough time to summit and back down before sunset. That's when I decided not to wait for my friends. That was mistake #2.
I continued to push on, thinking my friends will abandon summiting when they have reached their limits. I was certain I'm gonna make it. After a certain section, the chilly wind suddenly became horrendously big. I had to fasten my hat, and put on my jacket. I didn't expect it to be this cold at all. I continued, but starting to feel tired now. The wind was bothering me, pushing me from side to side, I had to take extra effort to balance myself. The gravel became less and less, and I soon found myself climbing on slushy snow. It was the last hill. I could see the summit closer and closer, but the climb became impossibly hard. Looking at other climbers with hiking poles, boy was I regretful in not spending that $20 on a pair of poles! Not spending that $20 was mistake #3. Nevertheless, I pushed on, telling myself, if so many other people could make it, so can I! I began to have trouble getting grip on the steep hill, and began to slip, and slip, and slip. Finally, on one slip, I sprained my ankle! I was devastated! I sat down, didn't know what to do, I started to wonder, would it be helicopter rescue? alpine rescue team? a good Samaritan? or freeze to death on summit? I know if I could twist it back, I can continue, but I have never done such a thing on myself, and I could definitely make it worst. So I started to call out Jesus, Jesus! I have to get back down! I rocked back and forward, and tried to place my leg softly in different positions. Then somehow, miraculously, my ankle went back into position! I was so surprised and overjoyed! I stood up, looked a head, I was so close, no way I'm gonna stop now! I used my last bit of strength, taking ever smaller steps, clamped my muscle a time or two, and finally, Made It!! I couldn't believe it! The view is magnificent! It is huge, and it really feels like the top of the world! It was 1:30pm. However, I had no desire to linger, or risk any more by walking any unnecessary distance. The wind was exceedingly strong, it was stupidly cold, and I had only shorts on, while others had full jacket and wet pants. I couldn't stop shaking! After a few important pictures, probably less than 15 minutes, I was ready to descend.
I took the fast way down and followed others to slide down the snow. It was easy and fun! The section that took me 1 hr to climb, took just minutes sliding down! As I was sliding down, I spotted Kevin and Mark still climbing! I totally underestimated their determinations! I could sense a little bit of danger for them making up that late, but looking at their determination, I just don't have the heart to tell them to give up. I told them I'll wait for them at a warmer place below. That was mistake #4, they had no idea where to find me after. They summited one hour later than me.
I continued to slide down, and followed the track carved out by previous sliders. But I was having way too much fun, I forgot to keep track of the trail markers. Two other innocent fellows followed me from behind. Before we knew it, we were on the other side of the mountain! We realized it, and began to climb back. I followed them, but they had hiking poles, and they were much faster. The hill is as steep as the last climb, and I had to climb across it. Luckily I have picked up a perfectly sized branch. That branch was placed right beside the snow track on a barren hill! I think that was miracle #2 of the day! I used that stick and struggled back to the path.
It was still very cold and my body couldn't stop shaking. I started to feel my muscles giving up, and I can't wait to get to a warm spot. I knew such perfect spot when climbing up, and I managed to get back to that spot. It was 3pm. I decided to have my lunch, write my journal, and wait for my friends there. It was eerily quiet, yet I found my peace there. There I saw the cloud disintegrating, transforming into curious shapes, touching the mountains afar. A black US fighter jet swept through the sky around the St Helens as if it made the trip just to glance the magnificent crater. It was such a nice place I felt I could stay there forever. But before I knew it, no more people were passing me by. The mountain felt absolutely emptied now! I started to worry. Did they get stuck up there? Did they get into trouble? Or somehow they took a different route?
It was 5pm and I finally decided to continue my descend. I took each step ever more careful, knowing that my muscles have overred their limit, and one mistake could proved fatal. I could step on a large and lose volcanic rocks and fell to other sharp rocks, or I could twist my ankles again! Each will make it fatal 'cause potentially there were no more people on the mountain, and I was on my own! I continued on, and suddenly saw very far away, 2 persons in front of me. I really wish it was them. I continued on, trying to keep focus on each steps. Soon I was able to catch up. After may be another hour, they spotted me. Kevin used his binoculars, and saw it was me! Finally we met again, at a little pass mid point. From then on, no more people past us, and it really did look like we were the last ones out! We continued on, completely exhausted our legs, and made it back to the trail head around 8pm, save and sound, though completely exhausted.
Thinking back, we have been so unprepared, and we all agreed God saved us! We've missed so many essential steps prior to the climb. We didn't research carefully enough about the mountain, we didn't check any climbing report or any forum talking about it, we did not follow exactly the official 'must-bring' list, and we did not train up for the hike. Although this is by standard an easy climb, this is an extremely difficult hike, and we were only prepared for a hike.