India - day twelve, thirteen, forteen - Pushkar, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur

The past day my schedule has been too tight so no time for me to write anything. On my last day in Pushkar, I ran out of things to do. The fair became too loud and too dusty for me. The programming seems to be too touristy. I did find a music school and had my hands for the first time on a sitar. It is a complicated looking instrument, but after a few instruction, I was able to play some simple stuff. The teacher told me it can only be played in C, and there seems to be some notes missing from the tab; or perhaps the teacher didn't teach me everything.

On the same day I met Michael from Toronto, he is also touring India alone for more than a month. Just when I thought this camel fest was too much for me, I met another girl from Japan traveling also alone, decided to stay for another 3 days for the fest. I start to feel I'm getting too old for this. Maybe my mentality is just not like before. I keep wondering why this trip has been so tough for me, even more tough for me than Cambodia...

After that, I took a night bus to Jaisalmer in the western part of Rajasthan. It was a wild ride. I chose not to look too much outside. I did manage to sleep for a while. We arrived safely at around 9am. It is a hot place, it is really a dessert town. I was dead tired. It was like jet lag all over again. I had only the day to tour the city, so no time to rest.

I was skeptical about coming here because of not so good review from the guide book, but I'm glad I did. It is a small town and not as stressed. I found the most amazing craving at the temple inside the castle here. The cravings are detailed and complicated. I toured the castle museum and it was one of the most organized ones. After that I went for the touristy camel dessert ride to see the sunset. It was absolutely touristy. The dessert was full of people, garbage, camel crap, and people trying to sell you stuff. At the end I was able to find a quiet spot though.

There, I was 60km from Pakistan. Suddenly I feel so far away from home, and I've made it a long way. For a brief moment, I felt I was truly away from everything, but only for a brief moment. After a while, I see people again, and asked me which country I'm from,... etc.

That was yesterday. This morning I took a morning bus to Jodhpur. So far every hotel offered me free pick up service. But for this one, they asked me to call them when I arrive, 'cause the bus never stops at the same place... It was a disaster when I arrived. They dropped everybody off at a gas station. I had no idea where I was. As soon as I got off, the gas station staff tried to kick us out of their property, at the same time ricksaw drivers surrounded me (the tourist) and tried to take me to the hotel which they can receive commission. Even if you give them the address, they would take you to some obscure place and tell you the hotel doesn't exist anymore. At the same time still, street kids grabbed my clothes and hand and begged me for money. It was the most helpless situation, but I know I cannot lose my cool. I took a ricksaw with another Chinese couple to the train station so at least I knew where I was. Then I tried to call the hotel, but couldn't get through. I didn't know here I have to dial zero first! Nobody told me. At the end, I took a chance with a ricksaw driver. Thank God he was honest. (at least with the location. I know he overcharged me.) All this make me feel sad that people could become so selfish here. In India, you basically can never know for sure whom you can trust, and no one is really willing to lend a hand. Everybody looks after their own interests, and you are absolutely on your own. The more helpless you are, the more people see it as opportunities to take advantages of. If there is one thing I've learned from this trip, it would be never be selfish. Go the extra miles for a stranger in need; because I don't want the place I live in become like this.

Anyway, got to my hotel safely. It looks pretty nice. It is at a school area, at the end of a dead end street, very quiet and relatively clean.

I had my first non-vegetarian meal tonight. And I feel good. From Jaipur to Pushkar, to Jaisalmer, nowhere could I find meat.

I've been having diarrhea for the past few days. Had my first Pepto Bismal in Pushkar, had my second one this morning. Thank God so far it only happened when I was back to the hotel, so at least I have a clean washroom to go to. I still do not know for sure what is causing it.

India - day eleven - Pushkar

So I didn't do the sunrise hike. My stomach wasn't feeling well, and it doesn't seem safe walking in the dark here, plus the landscape here doesn't seem to provide a good sunrise view. Anyway, I did the hike later in the morning. The view was great. The hike was short but rocky. I can't believe my eyes when I saw a guy walking up with one leg and a stick.

After that I saw a horse dance competition, where horses dance to Indian drum beat and music.

I found out the fair actually has a schedule for all the events, which I didn't expect.

Other than the festival, the other main attraction of this place is the many ghats surrounding this Hindu holy lake. I tried to find the lake at first but couldn't, turns out the lake is almost completely dried up. It is so sad that once a beautiful place now is just a pile of mud. I don't know why, it's only November... ? There are man-made pools now replacing the lake. I can't believe some guy tried to force me to put flowers into the water!

I was planning to leave tomorrow morning, but turns out there is only a night bus to my next destination. Hope the ride is gonna be safe.

India - day ten - Pushkar

This train is the smoothest by far, only 3 minutes delay this time, which is right on time in Indian standard.

My hotel forgot to pick me up. As I waited, a shoe shine boy came to me try to get my business. Sine I have to wait anyway, I thought why not. The boy looked like he's only 11. He shined my shoes so diligently, my boots never looked so shiny, almost look out of place with my backpacking look. He looked at it and felt satisfied of his work. He didn't have change so I just took whatever he had and sent him away. After a while he came back, and we started to talk a little bit. I found out he has a brother, 1 year old, and he walk to the train station 5 km to shine shoes. I asked how is his business, he said so so. Looking at the changes he has, I guess not so good. I tried to look away as he tried to find more topics to talk about, just in case he was trying get more money from me. After a while, he decided to leave. I looked at him, and he looked back at me, and we waved good-bye. I like the boy. He seems like a good kid. I wish him well.

Arrived at Pushkar and I have spotted the camels! a lot of them! It's just so happen that this week is the annual Camel Festival here. It really is a festival here. Not as crowded as I expected, but seems there are a lot happening here. Thank God for bringing me here, I never expected to see this. It's like a huge tribal gathering. People here are nicer it seems, maybe because of the festival spirit. Strangers say hi to me everywhere, people try to help point the way...

There are a lot of tourists here, I've met another guy which I have seen in another town.

Anyway, I'm gonna end my day early today, gonna try to catch the sunrise at this temple 1 hr hike from where I live, and my feet are exhausted.

India - day nine - Jaipur

Back to Jaipur, a day of shopping and sight seeing in this congested polluted chaotic city. Surprisingly I was able to nevigate to all the spots I planned to visit. I found out the cruel reality that I got ripped off in every item I bought on the first day. One was way out of range! Anyway, this is part of traveling I guess.

I met Zac and Braber from USA at the hotel. We recognize each other from Agra. Since this route I'm following is a very popular route for tourists, it is very likely you bump into the same people along the way. I thought I was having a tough time, but they seem to have an even tougher time. Their faces seem exhausted, and they both have been sick all week. Having heard their story, I consider myself very lucky.

Just came back from my first Indian massage. It was a proper massage. About 15 Cdn for an hour. The room was dark and smelled like Chinese medicine. The floor was sticky. Waiting me was a middle age Indian man. He covered me with hot Indian oil, and massaged me from shoulder to tow, front to back. And it ended with a wash with perfumed hot water. Feel good. I wonder if I smell like an Indian now.

I'll be taking another train to Pushkar tomorrow morning, and am expected to see a sea of camals as this week is the camal fest there, and it is where Lucy warned me there will be way too many people.

India - day eight - Amber Fort

Today went to another castle called Amber Fort. Getting there was a nightmare! The guide book suggested taking a bus, but no bus has any English sign. I asked around but nobody knew what I was talking about. Later I found out it pronounced "Ameh". Arrrg. Anyway, I can't believe someone tricked me to get on a bus and went to a travel agency! Lucky some good souls eventually pointed me back to the right way. Today was so hot, I think I drank a whole litre of water without going to the washroom. I skipped lunch again becasue it was too hot.

The guide book says India is a place of contrast. I find it is true with people as well. I've met some very bad people. Yet I've met some very kind and good people. I've had people making way for me to seat because I'm traveling a longer way. I've had people provided genuine help to me.

I find people always look at me in a strange way, like looking at an odd looking animal or something. Maybe they don't see a lot of Asians here. It makes me feel uncomfortable.

I also find it strange that often the opening greeting phase is "Which country from?" I usually say China, so if they ask for money and stuff, I can pretend I don't understand.

India - day seven - Jaipur

Not much of a dessert here, just another city. But I met some good people along the way today. Without them I could have never able to get here. Its another chaotic city.

First time on a sleeper train. The space is so narrow, its almost like a prison cell. 3 beds on top of each other. They fold down to become sits. When your neighbor sit, you sit. When your neighbor sleep, you sleep. But some nice people showed me where to sleep and where to sit, and where to got off.

The hotel is the nicest so far. Such a big contrast from the street outside. It's like one of those Kowloon Tong houses!

On the way to walk around the city today, I met a Chinese, Lucy from Shanghai. It was nice to really talk to someone. She's very nice. She offered to take me to a rather less well known musuem. I've got much to learn from her. She's one girl traveling all over India. I'm complaining about things now, but she has been to places much dangerous, all on her own! When she talks to people, she talk like she has been here for a long time!

Another failed attempt to bargain. Never buy from the first shop you go into. This is exactly what I did!

India - day six - Fatahpur

Agra is the town where Taj Mahal is, and today is the last day I'm here. Went to a near-by city today called Fatahpur where an old palace is. It is surrounded by ruins. Other than the main castle, seems the entire city is built on top of the old ones, where ruins are coexisting with the new town. Where once were busy market, now desserted. Where once were nothing, now is full of people. For the first time in India, I was actually able to find a place where there were not one person! It was a ruin area behind the castle. I have not had this kind of peacefulness for a long time. The only thing lacking is fresh air.

Today had my first Indian bus experience. It was all the bad things everybody ever heard about. And I know it could be worst. There weren't Indian Karaoke at least. I have no idea how I'm gonna survive an upcoming 10 hr bus ride next week!! I hope I can get on an up class one.

I'm starting to get very tired of the word 'Hello' from the kids, it actually traslates to 'Can you give me some money' 70% of the time.

I think I'm getting used to the chaotic noises here. I find myself able to think about something else when all those noises are happening.

My room is a non-AC room where I could here all the people, cars, beeping noises plus the Islamic chanting from the loud speaker. But I'm surprised I'm able to get a decent sleep. Maybe I'm just too tired.

Tomorrow gonna catch a 6am train, and enter the dessert province of Rajasthan. I hope there will be ricksaws that early to take me to the train station.

India - day five - Tah Mahal

So that was it. I've been to Tah Mahal. Some people say they like iit up close, but I still like it more from afar. Its like a toy castle from some fairy tale. It doesn't look real, yet it is. I spent a whole hour starring at it from the hotel roof top. Today as I walked up close to it, it is really one giant marble. It is incredible.

Bumped in to a funeral preparation today. Didn't really get to see it happening, 'cause people started to come talk to me in language I don't understand. At one time some 10 teenagers surrounded me, not sure if they meant well or not, I figured it was best for me to leave. But I feel sad about it. Seems death is just nothing special. It almost seems like they were doing it on the street beside the river. Everybody just come and go. There were many body sized slots, with ashes on each one. Some still smoking. I really don't know what they are. And there was the body wrapped in colorful blanket, with dry woods on the side ready to be burnt.

I actually like a part of this town, despite some of the bad stuff. People seems to be nicer and more honest (relatively speaking) here. I like talking to the kids. They are more innocent and genuine. I compliment a kid at a crafting shop about his English and he seems thankful, in an uncomfortable way. Perhaps not many people complimented him before. But my compliment was truthful. And then I talked to Aksar at a ticket shop. His father was out, but he cared about his father's business so much, he kept asking me to wait: "2 minutes, 2 minutes"... He is such a good boy, at only age 11, seems he already understand so much...

I'm not a Japanese. Stop calling me a Japanese, and stop speaking Japanese to me :p

India - day Four - Tah Mahal

My first major Indian delay. Got up at 5am, trying to catch the 7am train. After a big rush, I got on the train successfully dispite the confusing cart numbering (It goes C3, C2, C1, D9, D8...). However the train stayed on the platform, so I started to read. After reading almost the entire history of India on my Lonely Planet book, the train finally started. However my heart dropped when my ricksaw driver told me the delay was because 5am today 2 trains collided because of a change rail mistake, he said 900 ppl died! I don't know if he was exagerating, I have yet to find out myself on the net... Life here is cheap, and suddenly I feel so humbled by it, the fact that I'm only 1 of the millions faces go across that railway everyday.

Just when my driver Arose driving me to the train station in Delhi, at 6am, we past through many row of blankets, scatered all around the side walks, the road dividers. It broke my heart when realizing that they are street people wrapped inside sleeping. They are not even sleeping under the overpass. How can so many people so ripped of their dignities. What have I done to deserve such good life and not them. I would not want to live if one day I'm in their shoes.

...

So this is it. Tah Mahal, I can't believe I'm actually here! My hotel is like 5 min walk from it and I can see it from the roof top! And its only like 10 US per nite! I'm gonna try to catch its sunrise view tomorrow! Not as much pollution here, a clear view from the roof top! And ppl do seem to be nicer here away from the city... I'm still very excited!

My stomach is acting up a bit after yesterday eating almost all the source of a half butter chicken, bad idea :( I'm letting lose too soon!

Next few days may not write any entries 'cause I need to pay for Internet here, and I need to conserve my cash, doesn't seem to have any atm here...

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Sorry, I thk its this one, about the train accident:

http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/Mewar-Goa-express-collide-near-Mathura-21-dead/articleshow/5143832.cms

21 dead.

Never trust anyone in India.

But still... I was so close...